To learn to draw oil paints, it would be more correct to say, to paint with oil paints, you need to have certain knowledge in this area, namely, to understand the variety of tools that today are presented in a wide range in stores for artists. A novice artist may get lost when entering such a store without prior preparation, because a seemingly obvious set, such as canvas, brushes and oil paints, will not be enough for a good start in this business. This article is aimed at enabling you to virtually visit an artist store, as if accompanied by an experienced mentor. So let's get started!

Canvas

The first thing we will choose is canvas. As a basis for painting with oil paints, you can choose various materials: board, cardboard, metal plate, glass, plastic. But if we are talking about classical painting, then, of course, you should choose a fabric that is primed in the right way, stretched tightly on a stretcher and ringing like a drum. Yes, yes! The canvas should not sag, its surface should be perfectly flat. In former times, and even now, many professional artists stretch the fabric over stretcher themselves, they prime it themselves. Since these recommendations are intended for beginning artists, we will not delve into the topic of stretching canvas onto a stretcher; we will talk about how to choose the right surface ready for work, namely, a canvas that has already been primed and stretched on a stretcher.

It's best to canvas sheet was linen, it can be of medium or fine grain, have a smooth smooth surface without knots, the thickness of the canvas should be uniform everywhere. The grain of the canvas is various irregularities and knots in the fabric, in the weaving of the canvas threads. If there are a lot of such inclusions and the threads are coarse, then you have a canvas with high grain size. It is suitable for drawing objects with a strong texture, such as old brick walls, gnarled tree trunks, stones, rock debris, etc. Here you can work with large impasto strokes and use a palette knife. Therefore, such a canvas is not suitable for painting objects with a delicate texture or for conveying delicate light and shadow transitions. The delicate transparency of grapes and the face of a young girl cannot be drawn on such a surface. For such purposes, it would be right to choose a canvas finer workmanship, smoother, that is, fine-grained. And it is precisely this kind of canvas that is best purchased for beginning artists; by the way, on it, you can make a more detailed preliminary pencil drawing. And you can easily erase a part of the drawing you don’t like.

Pay attention to the quality of the stretcher, that is, the wooden base on which the canvas is stretched. We have already talked about the inadmissibility of its sagging, it remains to add that it is necessary to evaluate wood quality, from which the subframe is made. Usually it is linden, pine or birch. The wood must be well processed, dry, smooth, without knots, chips, rot or wormholes.

Oil paints

To begin with, you should not buy a large number of paints; it will be quite enough to purchase a set of 10-12 colors. The most important thing is that this set contains blue (glazes, cobalts), red (cadmium medium, light or dark), yellow (cadmium medium), black (carbon black), white (zinc or titanium white) paints. If you already know how to mix primary colors and get additional ones from them, then even this minimum will be enough for you, but it’s better to diversify a little, even if it’s just your first oil palette! To find out what color is in the tube, look at the color stripe on the label. Complete your set with blue paint (sky blue), ocher tint (light or golden ocher), so-called “earth colors” - natural umber, natural sienna, as well as natural shades of green colors - olive, herbal green, light green, etc. .

We remind you once again, look at the tube label. Or you can buy a ready-made set of paints. Over time, you will understand which paints are used up faster and which ones are not. In addition, before buying paints, it would be good to know in what color scheme you plan to paint the picture: will it be delicate pastel shades or rich contrasting painting? What size will your work be? This may also influence your choice. And, of course, it would be nice to familiarize yourself with the table of colors, the names of which are the same for almost all manufacturers, so you can easily navigate by color and look at the correct names of the colors and shades you like. Prices for oil paints from different manufacturers vary; they directly depend on the chemical composition of the paints. Paints that contain natural rather than synthetic pigments will cost more.

Brushes

Lucky

In the window of a store for artists, among other things, you will see various artistic varnishes. They are designed to work directly with paints, that is, the brush is periodically dipped into varnish, then into paint. This is what is called " painting on varnish" or "through varnish." Why is this being done? In order for the painting to be immediately bright and rich. And it is better, of course, to protect the finished work with well-dried paints with varnish. As we have already mentioned, varnish gives richness to the colors and, most importantly, protects your work from external influences. When the varnish is dry, the surface of the canvas can be wiped off from dust. Varnishes come in different compositions; they are mainly made on the basis of soft resins.

Solvents

A very necessary and important thing for oil painting. The solvent is needed to dilute the paints, in order to clean the brushes before finally washing them with soap suds.

Tee

This is a ready-made composition for diluting oil paints. It usually contains linseed oil, varnish and turpentine. It is this diluent that is poured into the oil can. If you don’t have it on hand, Pinene No. 4 solvent plus linseed oil will do.

Oil can

A special container into which a tee or solvent is poured. It is usually attached to the palette, for which it has a convenient clothespin attachment. Oilers come in plastic and iron. It is more convenient to have an oil can with a screw-on lid, then nothing will spill and the unused contents will not dry out prematurely.

Palette knives

A necessary and important tool in an artist’s arsenal. These are special spatulas designed to remove paint residue from the palette and apply and remove paint from the canvas. There are special painting techniques when work on canvas is done with a palette knife rather than a brush. There are sets of palette knives on sale different sizes and forms.

Palette

Oh this is real business card any artist! You also need to be able to choose the right palette; the colors on the palette should be placed closer to the edges, leaving room for mixing in the center. Palettes come in different shapes and sizes.

Easel

- a very convenient thing for objectively evaluating your work and seeing shortcomings. Work mounted on an easel is a professional approach. You can work in front of the easel either standing or sitting. From time to time you need to move some distance away from the canvas to see all the details. When buying an easel, focus on its strength, reliability of fastenings, size and model that suits you.

Sketchbook

A special device for painting outside the home. This is a kind of suitcase in which you can place everything you need for work: brushes, paints, solvents, canvases, cardboards. It is quite compact, opens and closes, and has reliable, strong carrying straps. The sketchbook can be of various sizes, with or without legs that can be adjusted in height. When buying a sketchbook, you need to make sure that it is reliable and durable, and has good fastenings. The sketchbook can also be used as an easel at home.

Here are, perhaps, the most basic tips that we hope will be useful to you when choosing materials for painting with oil paints. If you have the full set of tools that we talked about, you can safely start painting your first oil painting! Good luck and creative inspiration!

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16. Oil painting. Basic information about technology.

IN art school New Art Intention closer to the end of the basic painting courses and drawing courses, beginning artists begin to use oil painting. Due to the complexity of the new technology, many questions arise, and, bearing in mind that the new is the well-forgotten old, we decided to publish an article “Initial information about oil painting techniques”. This article was written by the artist F.I. Rerberg (1865-1938), and published in the magazine " Young artist» No. 9, 1937. It contains somewhat outdated methods and techniques for contemporary artists, but fully effective if you are “in the field”, where before the store with art materials and you can’t get supplies. And it's priceless! Because few artists now fill their own brushes, prepare paints and varnishes, and prime their canvases. But maybe it's worth a try?

The article is completely reprinted, “as is,” with explanations from the 1961 editors (in italics). Our comments will be below.

All hard work Katya Razumnaya took upon herself the typing and editing of this article (and several lessons), for which we express our deep gratitude to her.

Basic information about oil painting techniques.

Before starting to paint with oil paints, a novice artist needs to know what oil paints are and how to handle them. While working with water paints (watercolors), you have probably noticed that a fine powder settles at the bottom of the glass in which you rinse your brush. It is this powder that imparts color to the paint. The coloring substance is called pigment. If the powder (pigment) is mixed not with glue, which is used to make all water-based paints, but with oil, the result is oil paint. For this purpose, flaxseed oil is most often used, less often nut, poppy and sunflower oil. When exposed to air, these oils do not evaporate like water, but, like glue, turn into a solid mass. There are oils, such as olive oil, that always remain liquid, and paint mixed with them never dries. Other liquid oils evaporate like water. The paint prepared on them quickly becomes a dry powder. Paint powder is not simply mixed with oil, but ground with oil. Small amounts of paint are ground with a chime (the so-called pear-shaped stone body with a flat base). Paint mixed with oil is rubbed with a chime on a stone slab. The movement of the chime is either circular and progressive, or rectilinear in different directions and rubbed until all the paint turns into a homogeneous mass, in which the powder is not felt at all to the touch. The chime and slab must be made of very hard stone (porphyry, granite). The stone slab can be replaced with thick mirror glass. At art paint factories, paints are rubbed using special machines called paint grinders.

The finished grated paint is stuffed into tin tubes (tubes) closed with screwed heads. The paint is made of such thickness that it can be freely taken with a brush and painted on without diluting anything. The paints are sold in this form. If the paint we bought turns out to be too thick, we will have to add a drop or two of oil. It happens, on the contrary, that the paint squeezed out of the tube flows and blurs and does not hold its shape, which indicates that there is excess oil in it. Before you write with this paint, you need to smear it on the paper for several minutes. Excess oil is absorbed into the paper, the paint thickens and becomes usable.

To work, oil paints are placed on the palette. The palette is made of light wood. It is shaped in such a way that it can be comfortably held with the left hand along with several hands. Nowadays, palettes are usually made from plywood glued together in three layers. These palettes are very durable, but heavy. It is better if the palette is cut from one piece of wood and has a large thickness near the thumb hole, towards the left and top edge it should be heavily planed. This palette is easy to hold on your hand and doesn't cut your thumb.

A palette made from plywood must be pre-soaked in oil and dried well. An unoiled palette draws oil from the paints placed on it, causing the paints to thicken.

The paints are placed on the upper left edge of the palette. The middle remains for making mixtures. It is necessary to establish a certain order in the arrangement of paints on the palette, so that each paint always falls in its designated place. More often white paint(whitewash) is placed at the right end of the palette. I. E. Repin placed white in the middle of the upper edge of the palette, to the right of them he placed warm colors - yellow and red, to the left he placed cold colors - green and blue, then black and brown.

Upon completion of work, the palette must be cleaned immediately. Leaving a pile of unused paints on the edge of the palette, the entire remaining surface of the palette should be freed from the paint mass and wiped dry with a piece of cotton wool or a rag, but by no means wash the palette with turpentine or soap and water.

Brushes for oil painting are mostly bristle and, more often, flat.

Oil paints cannot be painted with one brush, like water paints. Brushes cannot be washed while working in oil, so you should not use one brush to paint light and dark colors, red and green, etc.

Buy bristle brushes No. 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12 for the first time. Then, undoubtedly, you will want to have more brushes.

To display small details in the picture, you will have to use one or two small brushes made of soft hair. The best of them are core ones. The brush is made from the tip of the kolinus tail. Since kolinsky brushes are expensive and are not always available for sale, you can get by with squirrel or ferret brushes. Buy #5 and #8.

Brushes must be kept very clean. If not washed in time, a dried brush will soon become unusable. After work, dirty brushes can be placed in kerosene*, in which they can stand for one or two days without much harm (*holes are cut in a piece of cardboard or plywood in accordance with the diameters of the brushes. The brushes are inserted into the holes so that they do not fall through, but are suspended).

Before work, brushes removed from kerosene are wiped dry with paper. Wash the brushes with soapy foam and rinse with water until the foam stops completely staining and no traces of paint remain on the brush.

In addition to the listed accessories, without which one cannot paint with oil paints, some other items are less necessary, but useful to the painter: a palette knife (spatula) - a horn or steel knife that is used to clean the palette, mix paints, remove excess paint from a painting, etc.

The artist-painter usually keeps paints and all the necessary accessories in a sketch box, which is convenient to carry with him to sketches. Its purpose is to serve both as a machine for writing sketches and, at the same time, as a repository for raw sketches. There are a lot of sketchbook systems.

What colors should a beginning painter have on his palette? What material can you paint on with oil paints? Do I need to dilute or add anything to the finished oil paints?

In oil painting, first of all, you need white paint - whitewash, which we completely do without when working with watercolors. Until the 19th century, all oil painting was done on white lead. Nowadays, most of our artists paint with zinc white. A beginning painter can, of course, paint with both. But it is better if he remembers that lead white dries faster and, upon drying, forms a very strong layer, but it tends to turn black from bad air (from hydrogen sulfide gas), especially in a dark room. In addition, they are very poisonous. Zinc white does not turn black, but it takes a long time to dry, and the dried layer cracks more easily. Now it is recommended to make a mixture of 2/3 zinc and 1/3 lead white.

Of the red paints, you need kraplak, or garance, a transparent paint of a thick crimson-red color. Bright orange-red paint called cinnabar. IN lately We are beginning to replace cinnabar with an equally bright but more durable paint - cadmium red. Our brightest yellow paints cadmium yellow. It comes in a range of shades: orange, dark, medium, light, lemon. Buy two of them: dark and light. In terms of brightness of color, cadmium's rival is chromium yellow, or crown. It is much cheaper than cadmium. Cadmium is a durable paint, but crown soon loses its brightness.

Since time immemorial, the most common yellow and red paints have been the so-called ochres. Ohrami still primitive man painted silhouettes of animals on the walls of caves. Ocher is natural yellow clay, only washed and crushed. It is found in many places globe and has various shades yellow, brown, less often red. High temperatures cause all yellow and brown-yellow ocher to turn red. You've probably seen how yellow raw brick turns red after being fired in a kiln.

All ocher is durable and cheap. Buy light yellow ocher and some red (burnt). Red ocher or its variety is sometimes called flesh ocher, Venetian, Indian, or English paint.

Close to ocher natural Siena soil (from the surrounding area Italian city Siena), bright brown, dark yellow and burnt Siena soil are being replaced by lands similar to them in color, available on the territory of our Union. There are a lot of green paints sold, but most of them are mixtures of blue and yellow paints. Each of you can make this mixture yourself. In a set of paints, you can limit yourself to one green paint. The famous Soviet landscape painter Rylov used only one green paint - emerald green. And look, what an abundance of green shades he extracted from his modest palette!

Of the blue paints, especially at first, you could limit yourself to one ultramarine. Lighter blue paint- cobalt - does not completely replace ultramarine, but is necessary in the absence of the latter. The dark blue Prussian blue (or Prussian blue), common among us, seduces beginners with its great strength and brightness. But it’s better not to get used to this paint. It will be difficult to wean yourself off of it, but it is weak and breaks down when mixed with most other paints.

The black paints we currently sell are: burnt bone and grape black.

Of the brown paints currently produced by our factories, Mars Brown is the best.

What material can you paint on with oil paints?

On a very smooth, slippery surface, oil paint does not adhere, glides, and does not stick to the surface. On a porous surface that absorbs oil, oil paint, as they say, dries up, loses its shine, and becomes dull. So, the paint will fade greatly on ordinary white cardboard or paper. If you glue the paper with a liquid solution of some kind of glue, you can avoid dryness, but sizing makes the paper easily brittle.

In the last century, small works were often painted on oiled paper. This is what ours did sometimes famous artist A. A. Ivanov. The paint adheres well to this paper and does not dry out. But over the years, dried oil becomes brittle and oil-soaked paper crumbles like a dry tree leaf. But here’s a technique that can be recommended: the paper is glued with strong glue onto thick cardboard, and after that it is soaked in oil. The most common and convenient material for oil painting in our time is canvas. Almost all oil paintings that adorn our museums are painted on primed canvas.

More often, linen or hemp canvas is used for painting, as it is more durable, but they paint on both paper and jute canvas. The canvas fabric should be dense and smooth, without knots. You cannot paint in oils on a blank canvas. Oil, absorbed into the canvas, overeats it. After some time, the oiled canvas becomes brittle and collapses. Therefore, the canvas for painting must be covered with primer - primed. This primed canvas is sold ready-made. But, since both the success of the work and its further safety largely depend on the quality of the soil, you need to be able to choose a primed canvas when purchasing it, or better yet, be able to prime the canvas yourself.

The piece of canvas that you are going to prime must be stretched tightly onto the frame, otherwise the canvas will wrinkle. Before applying the primer, the canvas is glued with a liquid glue solution, preferably fish or gelatin. One leaf of gelatin is diluted in a glass of water. When the glue dries, primer is applied to the glued canvas.

Here's a good recipe for adhesive primer:

Gelatin 10 g, zinc white or chalk 100 g (a little more than half a glass), water 400 cm3 (two glasses). To make the soil more elastic, add 4 cm3 of glycerin or honey. This amount of soil is enough for 2 m2 of canvas. The primer is applied with a brush.

Very good soil is obtained using this recipe:

Mix 4 chicken eggs in 160 cm3 of water and add 120 g of zinc white (or chalk). This amount of soil can be used to cover 1 m2 of glued canvas twice.

To work with paints, small pieces of primed canvas, paper or cardboard can be attached with thumbtacks to the board. A canvas measuring 50 cm or more must be stretched onto a subframe equipped with pegs inserted into its inner corners, with which you can stretch the canvas if it has sagged or formed folds. You need to practice a little in your ability to stretch the canvas onto a stretcher. Having folded the edges of the canvas onto the sides of the frame, fasten with a nail the middle of one side, then the middle of the opposite and the middle of the third and fourth sides. The canvas is then pulled towards the corners, gradually driving nails from the middle of each side to the corners.

When buying or ordering a machine for your painting (easel), pay attention to the fact that the machine is stable and the painting does not sway or tremble from the pressure of the brush. All folding tripods have very little stability, and for working in a room it is better to have a simple vertical easel with pegs.

I have already said that you can paint with oil paints without diluting them with anything, just as they come out of the tubes. But there are times when you have to resort to additional liquids and compounds during work.

You need to have a bottle of purified flaxseed, sunflower or nut oil. But do not forget that any excess oil in paint is very harmful and leads to yellowing and cracking of the paint layer. If for some reason you need to make the paint more liquid, it is better to dilute it with some liquid that will evaporate from it and will not leave any trace in the paint. Such a paint solvent can be refined petroleum (refined kerosene) or white spirit (solvent No. 2). In addition, there are special varnishes that can be used to dilute oil paint. They are called painting varnishes. Do not mix slow-drying painting varnish with others, which is called "retouche varnish" (retouch varnish). The purpose of the latter is to destroy rottenness*.

(*Since the author of the composition of the varnish does not offer retouching, it is possible to remove the fade with bleached or compacted oil, specially prepared for painting. Some artists, to eliminate the fade before the secondary propivation, wipe the faded areas with a weak solution of dammar or mastic varnish. It is used as a solvent for turpentine varnishes purified turpentine; for varnishes prepared with white spirit, white spirit is used.)

There are also compounds that, when added to oil paint, speed up its drying. I warn the inexperienced painter against these compositions (driers), since some of them, while accelerating the drying of paints, at the same time cause them to blacken and crack.

Having received oil paints and a primed canvas in his hands, an inexperienced painter usually begins to paint with these paints at random, regardless of anything, rejoicing in the fact that he can rewrite the same places many times.

As a result of such handling of the material, the paintings quickly deteriorate, lose their color, turn black, become covered with cracks, and the recorded areas begin to show through the top layers of paint. Do not make excuses by saying that your first endeavors are not of great value and no one will regret if our pictures die:

Remember at first some rules for handling oil paints. If you do not expect to finish your work in one day, as they say, in the wet, do not apply the first layer of paint thickly and avoid introducing slow-drying paints into it (kraplak, gas black).

Usually the paint does not dry on the first day, and the next day you can continue working on it wet. When the paint stops staining, you need to leave the work for several days and continue it only when the bottom layer seems to have hardened. You also need to let each layer dry before applying a new one. With secondary registrations, withered areas usually appear on the paint layer, that is, dull areas. These faded areas can be restored to shine by carefully wiping them with retouch varnish. Be careful because the varnish may dissolve paint that is not dry enough. You can coat the dry area with oil, but the next day you need to use a piece of paper to remove the remaining oil that has not been absorbed into the paint, otherwise a yellow spot will form on the oiled area over time. Oil destroys rottenness better than varnish. You can to some extent avoid the formation of withering marks by wiping with retouch varnish all places that are subject to secondary registration. The old masters rubbed such places with a cut onion or garlic*. When making dry adjustments, be aware that oil paints become more transparent over time, and the parts you painted on top begin to show through under the top coat of paint. Therefore, do not just write down the places that you want to destroy, but scrape them off first. (* This method is especially often used in cases where fresh paint is applied to already very dry paint. Rubbing with onion or garlic helps to better adhere the new layers of paint to the underlying ones).

There are many examples of pieces of painting protruding from under the top layer, which the author considered destroyed. A painting by Velazquez has survived, in which the horse turned out to have eight legs, since the four legs painted on top were joined by four, destroyed by the author, but now clearly visible.

Performance techniques oil painting there are several. In the old days, usually, having carefully drawn the outline, the picture was underpainted, that is, light and shadow spots were installed on the canvas, often in one tone, mostly brown, paint, sometimes not oil-based. Such underpaintings remained from Leonardo da Vinci. According to the underpainting, the whole picture was painted in colored paints; The picture ended with glazes. Glaze was especially widely used by the great Venetian masters of the 16th century, who were considered unsurpassed colorists.

Nowadays, artists often paint at once, trying to give each stroke of paint the desired shape, aperture ratio, and color. This is how landscape sketches are mostly written. For example, Repin painted in one session, using raw materials, not only sketches, but also completely finished portraits, without preliminary drawing, without any underpainting, without any glazing. Repin completed his large figure paintings for a long time, redoing a lot of them, sometimes even starting the painting again on a new canvas. Serov painted portraits for a very long time and, after drying the work, finished it with glazes.

A young aspiring artist must, from the first steps, accustom himself to serious, thoughtful, systematic work and to a strict attitude towards his material.

U rocks of oil painting for beginners in art school New Art Intention begin with practical techniques for learning to paint with oil paints. But before that, artists paint a whole series of paintings in acrylic, imitating the technique of oil painting, i.e. They write through underpainting and using a brushstroke technique that is closest to oil painting. Initial works are painted on canvases on cardboard and later, when novice artists get used to the oil technique, they switch to canvases stretched on a stretcher. Although canvases on cardboard are also used in plein air lessons for drawing sketches. In addition to linen, cotton and synthetic canvases are available for sale; the latter have pronounced “rubber” properties, which is somewhat specific.

Let's add on the above article. Now our artists use both plywood and plastic palettes. Plastic palettes do not delaminate and are easier to handle.

There is a huge choice of brushes now, many beginners in painting lessons work with synthetics, some with a column, some use bristles. The properties of each, or “brush stroke,” are known to them and are suitable for different tasks when teaching painting. The only thing that can be said is that synthetics are durable, the kolonka wears off very quickly on the canvas.

There is also an abundance of color oil paints on sale now. There is no need to cook them. Paints from different manufacturers interact well with each other and mix with oils and varnishes. To dilute paints in painting lessons, we use “triple” - a mixture of equal amounts of varnish (for example, damar), oil (linseed) and pinene (purified turpentine). It is better not to use sunflower oil, because... it is semi-dry.

Training and further improvement of painting skills in our school New Art Intention have no time boundaries. Therefore, our artists have created many interesting paintings from still life to landscape, from portraits to abstract paintings.

The artist always tries to show his connoisseur what his soul feels, strives to convey how he sees the world around him. This feature lies not only in what the artist depicts, but also in what technique he works. The material used by the master is also important. Oil paints, unlike acrylic, gouache and watercolors, tend to take a long time to dry, since the layer of oil paints can remain wet for a long time. When dry, if any detail in the future painting does not suit the artist and there is a need to correct something, the thick oil layer can be removed using a special knife - a palette knife.

Next, a new layer of paint can be easily applied to the canvas! In addition, the oil has another specific feature: Thanks to its slow drying, the artist can mix colors into an incredible palette of color variety and smooth color transitions.

How to paint First of all, you need to choose the paint itself. IN this issue The main criterion in the selection of material is its quality. Oil paints with class “AA” are quite durable compared to class “C” paints, since the latter quickly fade and lose their saturation. Oil painting for beginners should begin with an introductory theory, since first of all you need to know the material you are working with and be able to choose and apply it correctly. This situation occurs when, when applying a second layer of oil to the canvas (without first drying the first layer), the color of the image changes. In this regard, it is necessary to familiarize yourself in detail with the features of the composition of paints and the nuances of their application.

How to paint with oil paints and what to mix them with? When imagining the image of an artist, on a subconscious level a picture of a man with a scarf in a “French” beret appears, holding a large palette with brushes in his hands. It is the palette that is the main element of the artist’s image. Mostly, palettes are made of wood and have a shape that is convenient for holding them in the left hand along with brushes. These have a hole for your thumb. It should be noted that a good wooden palette is treated and soaked in oil, and then dried. This procedure is necessary so that the oil present in the palette is not absorbed by the palette, since otherwise the paints are subject to rapid drying.

How to paint with oil paints and what brushes are best to use? Oil painting requires a separate approach to the selection of materials. With oil, you should choose flat bristles. An important point is that you cannot paint with one brush. During the creative process, the brush is not washed (only when finishing the work), so using one brush for light and dark colors may result in improper mixing and “contamination” of the base color.

How to paint with oil paints on canvas? The canvas is the basis for the future painting. In order for the picture to turn out realistic and rich, it is necessary to choose the right material from which the canvas is made. Hemp or linen are suitable for oil painting. The fabric of your canvas should be knot-free, smooth and dense. Important point: be sure to prime the canvas! In specialized art stores you can purchase either a ready-made primed canvas or carry out this procedure yourself.

The one who doesn't know how to do this? Painting a person in oil is a complex multi-step process that requires certain knowledge and skills. In addition to the fact that you need to perfectly know the proportions of the human body and be able to correctly and correctly compare them, painting such a portrait in oil requires additional knowledge of the preparatory stages of working with materials, the stages of applying and mixing paints. Therefore, a young, beginning artist must initially accustom himself to thoughtful, systematic, serious work and the correct attitude towards the material with which he works.

Have you ever dreamed of painting a beautiful, expressive oil painting? In this article you will find some tips to help you dive into beautiful world oil paints. Once you master the basics of working with oil paints, canvas will become your world of fantasy!

Method 1 of 5: Preparing a Creative Space

Method 2 of 5: Preparing Oil Paints

Method 3 of 5: Start writing

Most people choose needlework or other options as a hobby. artistic creativity. Moreover, due to the same mass-produced goods, the demand for handmade things increases. Photos or computer images are printed multiple times. You can make a unique thing by learning how to paint oil paintings. Even a beginner can understand this painting technique.

Even if you try to repeat your plot perfectly twice, exact copy still can't do it. This is what creates the uniqueness of works of art.

Materials required for work:

• Host.
• Different colors.
• Brushes.
• Solvent and a small container for it.
• Special palette for mixing.

Masters also use palette knives- special metal elastic shovels with wooden handles, which are used to apply paint to the base. It is important for a beginner to master brushes.

In addition, masters paint paintings on easel or a high-quality sketchbook if they go to work in nature to depict oil paintings from life.

Landscapes for beginners are complex plot. It is better to create pictures using your imagination or using photographs. This will make it easier to depict the landscape.

According to professionals, working on an easel is easier, since it’s easier to step back and inspect the result of the work. At first, you can try to practice on the surface of the table, but it is better to take some kind of board and place it on your chair at a certain angle. You will get an overview of your work and you will be able to evaluate its quality well and notice your shortcomings in time.

Remember that paints are used up quickly, so you need to purchase them separately and in large quantities. The release form comes in different sizes. White paint disappears the fastest, but black paint is consumed in very small quantities. First you need to decide plot, and then buy paints of appropriate colors and shades.

In order to draw autumn bouquet you will need one set, but for a summer bouquet a completely different one. In order not to waste your budget on unnecessary colors, it is better to take only the necessary ones in approximately the required quantity. All colors and shades can be obtained with only three main colors(yellow, red, blue), as well as white and black.

Gallery: oil painting (25 photos)

Creating and selecting a base

If you want to make drawing easier for yourself, buy from specialized stores ready-made basics for work on which you can immediately apply paint. They cost a decent amount of money, but they are just right for a beginner, as they greatly simplify the work.

Another great option is use of fiberboard. Every man's household contains scraps of this material, which remains after repairs. It is easy to find it by asking friends, relatives or a loved one. Surely someone has used it and has leftovers of this stuff in their garage.

The shape of the fiberboard sides is different, one looks very smooth, and the other is quite rough, vaguely similar to a woven structure. Both forms can be used, but on a rough surface it is worth applying more parts and layers of primer, otherwise the color may become dull, since the paint will sink a little into the structure of such a product.

If you decide to try painting a landscape in oil for the first time, you can take a ready-made fiberboard base with a primer already applied. You need to take a small sheet, no larger than a landscape one.

If you want to make a DPV base with your own hands, an easy and inexpensive way is use of simple gelatin, you can add PVA glue to it to make the color white. This primer must be applied in several layers, allowing it to dry beforehand. Three times will be enough. You should feel that the surface has changed. After preparing the base, you can proceed to creating the picture.

Master class oil painting

After creating the foundation and preparing the materials, we begin work in stages:

• Make a line drawing on the canvas using a simple pencil or paint.
• Focus on the distribution of shadows and highlights (where there will be bright and dark areas).
• Create the background and any large objects.
• Start drawing small shapes and details.

Sometimes move away from the picture to evaluate the results of your activities. Mix on the palette as you paint. different shades flowers. The last step is to frame the painting.

Master class on oil painting for beginners

In this master class we will draw the sea!

Description of drawing step by step:

First of all, you need to prepare the picture with which you are going to paint the sea. Place the canvas on the easel. Create the first strokes on the canvas, making the main background. Wait a little until it dries completely. If you follow the advice of the master class, then you will be able to paint a picture with oil paints of the sea. After finishing drawing, you need to decide on a name, most importantly, do not forget to leave your initials on the work. Authorship is very important because it makes your work stand out.